St Govans - The Chapel by the Sea

Of all the religious buildings in Pembrokeshire, or indeed anywhere in the United Kingdom, the most unusually-sited must be that of St. Govan. You will find the chapel huddled against the cliffs mid-way between Huntsman’s Leap and St. Govan’s Head (there is car parking available at the Head), about a mile-and-a-half from the village of Bosherton. St. Govan’s Head marks the most southerly point of Pembrokeshire.

You do not have to follow the example of the Huntsman - he is said to have died of fright after leaping the ravine named after him at full gallop and then looking back to see what he had done - but take care when descending the narrow stone steps. Sometimes, too, the roads and paths will be closed by use of the military range at short notice but these times are usually announced in the local press.

It is well-worth making the descent. There is a legend about the number of steps: that they cannot be counted by a mortal being. Most of us will realise that this story probably has its origins in the irregularity of the steps’ carving, and be happy with the approximation of ‘about 74 or 75’. It is much more rewarding to enjoy the spectacular views from this part of the Coastal Path than to bother with counting.

The Chapel itself is tiny - less than eighteen feet by thirteen. It is also simply constructed - nothing much more than a nave, an altar at the eastern end of the building, a door and window and a few recesses. Most will not take too much notice of this. It is remarkable enough that any structure at all should have been erected on this windswept beach. Much of the building dates from the thirteenth century, but it is said to be built on the site of a sixth-century hermitage built by St. Govan himself. Located near to the chapel is a holy well.

So who was this man? Like the stories of many of the Celtic Saints, his origins are bound up with legend. But it is generally thought that St. Govan (or Gobhan, Gobban or Coven) was Irish, the son of a metal-worker of the Hy Cinnselach Clan in what is now County Wexford. As a boy he was attracted by the teachings of St. Ailbe, originally from Solva, North Pembrokeshire, and joined the monastery at Dairanis. Apparently he was originally a cook for the community. He must have risen in importance, for he was one of three brothers sent to Rome on a mission to see the Latin form of the mass.

After a short time as a pupil of St. Senan in the monastery of Inniscathy he was elected Abbot of Dairanis to succeed St. Ailbe. He was already an old man when he came to Pembrokeshire, and we do not know why he came. Perhaps he was trying to find the homeland of St. Ailbe. At all events he stayed in the County until his death, and when he died in 527 is said to have been buried underneath the place where the altar of his chapel stands now. The Celtic Church designated 26 March as his Saint’s Day.

The most enduring legend associated with St. Govan concerns his hiding place in the fissure of rock still to be seen in the chapel. Marauding pirates from Lundy Island tried to capture him - they could have demanded a good ransom for the abbot of a monastery - but he hid in the cleft in the rocks. This is said to have opened to allow him to enter, and then closed over his head until his would-be captors had gone.

Pirates figure in another legend at this site. Outside the chapel there is a large boulder called ‘The Bell Rock’. The sea-raiders were said to have stolen the silver bell from St. Govan’s original building, but in answer to his prayer angels retrieved it and placed it inside the boulder for safety. Thereafter, instead of ringing the bell St. Govan used to tap the rock, which gave out a note a thousand times stronger than had the original bell.

One old story which is unlikely to have any foundation is the association of St. Govan with Sir Gawain, one of King Arthur’s knights. According to this story Gawain turned to the church in later years and built the original chapel. This contradicts other Arthurian legends, which have recorded Gawain’s death taking place before Arthur’s last battle. The association probably only came about in later years because of the vague similarity between the names Govan and Gawain.

But the chapel is certainly there today, and it’s worth making the climb down the steps. If you do that, you’ll be following in the footsteps of the then newly crowned King Edward VII, who made the journey in August, 2002. He must have thought that the trip merited Royal effort and time.

This article was written by Raymond Humphreys (www.benybont.co.uk) for the Pembrokeshire Life Magazine.